Chevelle Cowl Tags Explained: Paint, Trim and Build Date Codes

Every Chevelle body carries a small stamped metal plate commonly called the cowl tag or trim tag. It was applied by Fisher Body, the GM division that built the bodies, and it told assembly workers how that particular body was to be finished. Today it is one of the most useful, and most misunderstood, pieces of evidence about a car's original configuration.

This guide explains what the tag generally shows and what it cannot prove. It does not list code tables. Codes changed by year and practices varied between assembly plants, so use year-specific references from reputable clubs and judging guides when you decode a specific tag.

Where to find it

On Chevelles the tag is riveted in the engine compartment on the cowl or firewall area, typically on the driver's side. It is separate from the VIN plate, which on 1964–67 cars is on the driver-side door hinge pillar and from 1968 is on the dash, visible through the windshield.

What the tag usually shows

Item	What it means	Notes
Model year and style number	Year, series and body style	Should agree with the VIN
Body number	A Fisher Body production sequence number	Not the same as the VIN sequence
Assembly plant	Where the body was built	Tag layouts differ by plant
Trim code	Interior color and material	Identifies the original interior
Paint code	Exterior color, sometimes lower and upper	Two-tone and vinyl top information may appear
Build date code	When the body was scheduled to be built	Usually a month number with a week letter
Option codes	Some body-related options	Only on some years and plants; never a complete list

Style number

The style number identifies the model year, series and body style, such as a two-door hardtop or convertible. It should be consistent with the VIN. A mismatch is a strong signal that something has been changed.

Paint and trim

The paint code identifies the original exterior color, and on two-tone or vinyl-top cars there may be additional information. The trim code identifies the interior color and type. Together they tell you how the car looked when new, which is essential for a correct restoration and helpful for judging whether a color change has occurred.

Build date

The time-build code generally shows the month and a week within that month when the body was scheduled through the plant. It lets you compare dates on other components: an engine or rear axle dated well after the body was built cannot be original to the car.

Option codes

On some years and at some plants, the tag also carries codes for certain options, such as features that affected how the body was built or finished. These can be valuable clues, but they are incomplete by nature. The tag was a work instruction for the body plant, not a record of everything installed on the car.

What the tag cannot tell you

It usually does not prove SS status. Engine and many performance options were installed on the Chevrolet assembly line, not at the body plant, so the tag often says nothing about them. Some tags carry codes that experts consider supporting evidence for certain packages, but interpreting them requires year- and plant-specific knowledge.
It does not identify the engine. For that you need engine stampings, casting numbers and dates, and documentation.
It is not the VIN. The body number on the tag is a body-plant sequence, not the car's legal identity.
It can be inconsistent. Plant practices varied, workers made errors, and some cars received paint or options that differ from the tag.

For the full approach to authenticating an SS, read how to identify a real Chevelle SS.

Why tags are faked

Because buyers look at the cowl tag, people with something to sell sometimes alter it. Common tricks include:

Swapping a tag from a more desirable car onto a different body
Installing a reproduction tag stamped with codes the car never had
Altering characters on an original tag
Replacing a damaged tag without disclosure

Signs to watch for include rivets that are not the correct type or show tool marks, paint around the tag that does not match the surrounding area, characters that look too crisp or use the wrong font or spacing for the year and plant, and a tag that looks newer than the metal around it. These judgments take experience, which is why high-value cars should be examined by a recognized expert.

Reproduction tags are sold legitimately for restorations where the original was lost, but a reproduction should never be presented as original. If a seller cannot explain the history of a tag that looks new, treat any claims based on it with caution.

Using the tag well

Photograph it clearly, straight on and at an angle, before any cleaning or restoration work.
Check consistency with the VIN year and body style.
Compare dates with engine, transmission and axle date codes. Original components should be dated before the car's build.
Decode it with year-specific references, such as club publications and judging guides, and confirm with marque experts.
Leave it in place. Removing or re-riveting a tag raises questions for every future buyer.

If you are restoring the car, the tag's paint and trim codes are your guide to the original colors. Our restoration basics guide covers documenting the car before work begins, and the model-year guide helps confirm the year.

The bottom line

The cowl tag is a valuable part of the story, but only one part. It is strongest when it agrees with the VIN, the build sheet and other documentation, and the date codes on the drivetrain. When every piece of evidence lines up, you can be confident. When the tag is the only thing supporting a claim, slow down and ask an expert.